2010

Sept/Oct

July/Aug – Zucchini

Q.  HELP, I’m being buried by zucchini.  Any ideas on what to do with it all?   Squashed in South Fayette

A.  Unfortunately, you just missed Sneak Some Zucchini Onto Your Neighbor’s Porch Day on Aug. 8th, but I think I can still help you. I grate zucchini in my food processor then pile it into a colander. I use a cotton napkin to squeeze out as much liquid as possible then stuff it into quart sized freezer bags to use in recipes all winter. When you thaw it, just poke a hole in the bag to drain out any excess water. Another option is to bake zucchini breads, I prefer the mini size, and simply freeze them. They make great holiday gifts. I’ve included a scrumptious recipe for Chocolate Zucchini Bread that freezes well, if it doesn’t all get eaten first. Also remember, we now carry a full line of Ball Canning Products for when the tomato harvest starts coming in.  Happy Gardening & Harvesting

Chocolate Zucchini Bread Recipe 2010

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June – Planting Annuals

Q.  Where did spring go? It’s already June, school’s almost finished, and I haven’t even planted any summer flowers yet. Am I too late and if not, what annuals are left at this late date? Any help will be appreciated.

Procrastinator from Peters

A.  You’ve still got lots of time to plant some annuals this summer. Remember that well-tended flowers can last into October, so you’ll still get months of enjoyment from them. Plus, unlike most mass merchandisers, we still have plenty of beautiful annuals to brighten up any garden. For sunny areas, consider flats of marigolds, petunias, dusty miller, and flowering vinca, which the deer don’t like. My favorite are wax leaf begonias, which seem to grow almost anywhere with little fussing. We also have a good selection of impatiens and coleus for the shadier spots in your yard. So stop up and choose some flats of annuals from our greenhouse. Plus now you can get the kids involved in the planting process.  Happy Gardening.

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April/May – Hanging Basket Care

Q.  Every spring I get 2 gorgeous Million Bells hanging baskets for my sunny front porch. Unfortunately, by July, aphids have attacked and killed them for the past two summers. I’ve tried all kinds of sprays, from organic to chemical, to no avail. The aphids always win. I have my heart set on those baskets because the colors compliment my house so perfectly. Can you offer me any help this year.

Thanks…Bugged in Bridgeville

A.  The first piece of advice I can offer is that most insects look for plants that are under some type of stress. Be sure to keep your baskets as evenly moist as you can, especially if they are in the hotter, afternoon sun. I also have a new product to help in your battle. It is called Systemic Houseplant and Container Granules. It is a granular product that you simply sprinkle on the surface of the soil in a container or hanging basket and lightly scratch it in. The plant’s roots absorb the chemical and circulate it throughout the leaves and stems, providing about 8 weeks of protection against a wide variety of insects, including aphids, A 10” hanging baskets only requires about 4 teaspoons applied every 6-8 weeks and because the product is granular, there is no mixing. Just store what you don’t use for next year. It couldn’t be easier. The product is just not to be used on anything you are planning to eat. I think you can kiss those aphids good-bye and finally enjoy your Million Bells baskets this summer. Happy Gardening.

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2009

Sept/Oct – Pruning Perennials

Q: I am looking out my kitchen window at my pitiful looking perennial garden. It was newly planted this spring and it definitely looks shabby right now. Where should I begin to spruce it up? I’m very scared about the correct time to cut back plants. I need help. Perennially Perplexed in Peters

A: Well, you are not alone in being afraid to get out there and do some major pruning. And this time of the year, even my perennial beds look like they’ve seen better days. So, start with the plants that are completely done blooming for the season: including daylilies, peonies, and coneflowers. Don’t be afraid to trim these back to 8-12”. I chop my daylilies, (not the rebloomimg varieties); back to about 8” after the last flowers fade in August. They send up some nice, fresh foliage and look great thru fall. Give coreopsis a light haircut to remove the spent blossoms and you’ll get a second season of color. Just removing faded flowers can do wonders for making the garden look neater. Next year, try to trim all season as plants finish blooming. A wonderful reference on just this subject is “The Well-Tended Perennial Garden ” by Tracy DiSabato-Aust. I keep it by my bedside for late night reading. Also be sure you have some great fall blooming perennials like Autumn Joy sedum, perennial hibiscus, asters and blue caryopteris. Be sure to add some fall pansies in Mid September for a real punch this fall and winter. Ours should be arriving around Sept 12th. Just get out there and do some trimming. Remember, perennials are not “Plant It and Forget It’ plants. They need regular maintenance including deadheading and dividing, and fall is a wonderful time for most of these chores. Also consider freshening up the mulch this time of year and adding some organic, slow release fertilizer to your beds. Happy gardening.Back to Top

July/Aug – Trimming Annuals

Q: My hanging baskets and container gardens look a bit bedraggled right now. I am fertilizing them every 7-10 days as you recommended, but they still straggly. Can I trim them and if so how? I’d like them to look nice for the rest of the summer. Thanks. Vivian

A: Sure you can and should do some trimming on your containers this time of year. There are three ways to get your plants back into tip-top condition:

- First you can pinch back plants like coleus, sweet potato vine, licorice plant, impatiens and wave petunias that have become leggy. To encourage new growth, just snip off the stems any place above a set of healthy leaves. Remember to vary your cutting lengths to maintain a natural appearance. Don’t be afraid to cut stems back by 1/3 or more.

-Secondly, you can deadhead your plants. This involves removing spent flowers. Some plants, like marigolds and zinnias, are easy. Just snap off the dead bloom. Others, like dianthus, require a shearing with scissors to get rid of those brown flowers. Remember to take the entire stem with the faded flowers of geraniums.

-The last way to get plants back to beautiful is a technique called undercutting. This is used on million bells, bacopa, lobelia, diascia, and petunias. If you lift up these plants, you will notice the underside can be very dry and dead. Simply use pruners or scissors to cut off this dead tangle of stems, being careful to leave the outer, greener stems intact. Snip a few stems and pull out the dead a little at a time. You want to thin the plant, not leave a gaping hole. Sometimes, you can just use your fingers to comb through the underside of overgrown plants and extract the dead branches.

I think this will help renew your containers and baskets and you will be enjoying them well into the fall. Just don’t be afraid of your plants. A little haircut this time of year will do them all some good. Consider doing the job before you go away on vacation, that way your baskets will be full of fresh growth on your return. That is if the neighbor kid actually watered them while you were gone. Happy gardening.Back to Top

June – Watering

Q: I just planted a new area with some holly bushes, daylilies, and some petunias around the front edge. Now I am wondering how to water everything? Thanks. Paul K.

A: The trick to watering is considering how deep into the soil the root ball sits on your new plants. Annuals, like petunias, sit a few inches deep so they will require a deep watering every few days. Perennials have roots that sit about a foot down in the soil. They will need a longer watering time in order to get the moisture to the entire depth of the root ball. A deep soaking that takes 15-20 minutes every 3-4 days will usually be adequate for your daylilies and other perennials. Now for trees and shrubs. You need a long, slow watering cycle of about 20-30 minutes every 4-5 days to moisten the roots of newly planted trees and shrubs. Slow soaking allows the water to soak into the soil rather than running off. A soaker hose is the ideal way to accomplish this, but a sprinkler can also do the trick. Just remember to set the kitchen timer to remind yourself to turn off the water. The rules for watering are to provide a deep watering infrequently, rather than a shallow daily watering. This will encourage a deep root system that survives drought much better. Happy gardening.Back to Top

May – Lobelia

Q: I love blue lobelia but I notice that mine, along with others in my neighborhood, are dead by late July. Can I do anything to keep them from fading out in midsummer? Mary Anne S.

A: Annuals fall into two categories; cool season and warm season. Cool season annuals thrive in the spring and fall when nights are cooler and the humidity is lower. Most can even take a touch of frost. Included in this group is your favorite lobelia along with violas, pansies, diascia, dianthus, snapdragons, calendula and nasturtiums. By late July, most of these annuals will stop flowering. This is the signal to cut them back by half and hope they will reflower with the cooler temperatures of fall. Around Father’s Day, you may want to interplant your cool season annuals with warm season annuals that will flourish as the lobelia fades. Warm season annuals include impatiens, geraniums, zinnias, sunflowers, torenia, flowering vinca, salvia, and celosia. Short of moving to Seattle, where the summers are cooler with lower humidity, you should enjoy your lobelia in the spring, when it is at its best. Give it a good haircut as the flowering slows and keep your fingers crossed for some regrowth and flowering come fall. Happy Gardening…Susan.Back to Top

April – Vegetable Gardening

Q: Everyone is trying to save money on their grocery bills these days. I’ve read so many articles on the increase in vegetable seed sales as a result. But, looking at that wall of seed packets is very intimidating to a new gardener like me. Can you give me any advice on where to begin so I’m not taken by the beautiful pictures on the packets? Thanks. Callie from Mingo

A: I’ll give it a try, Callie. Consider early season, easy to grow veggies that can be planted directly into your prepared garden this weekend. These include peas, beets, spinach, and radishes. Also you could add a row of green onions grown from “sets”, which look like miniature onions. Later, when the soil warms up in May, you add some bush beans, cucumbers, lettuce, and zucchini. Check your seed packets for planting dates. I would advise a new gardener to buy your tomato and peppers as transplants rather than trying to grow them yourself from seeds. Our huge selection of tomato plants has something for every taste. Consider Chocolate Cherry, the winner of our tomato tasting last summer. Also new this year, we will have the much publicized Burpee Seedless Tomato. We are all anxious to give it a try. Remember, you don’t even need a yard to have a successful vegetable garden. Use a large pot for a pepper surrounded by leaf lettuce. Even a 5 gallon bucket makes a perfect tomato tub. And don’t forget a window box full of herbs close to the kitchen door. Happy Gardening…Susan.Back to Top

2008

Sept/Oct – Wave Petunias

Q: This summer I bought purple wave petunias for my hanging baskets. They get afternoon sun. I’ve been very vigilant about watering them when they are dry, which has been every other day. My petunias are looking really ratty with few flowers. Other houses in my neighborhood have baskets that still look gorgeous. On a recent visit to your greenhouse, I was amazed how beautiful your baskets still look. Any suggestions on how to keep my hanging baskets healthier next summer? I’ve thrown in the towel this season. Thanks. Marianne from State College

A: First and foremost…Don’t put your potted plants on a diet! Most containers are heavy feeders, especially wave petunias. Be sure to fertilize, or as we say “feed”, your pots weekly with a water soluble formula that is high in phosphorus, which is the middle number on your fertilizer. We use and recommend Jack’s Classic Blossom Booster. You can cut the dilution rate in half and use it every time you water for spectacular results. Also, try to keep your baskets evenly moist instead of letting them get extremely dry between waterings. Check them daily and water as needed. Be sure to use a high quality potting soil, especially in hot, sunny locations. Try our Ultimate Container Mix which contains a slow release fertilizer plus water holding crystals that will help keep plants moister. I think with a little more attention, your hanging baskets will be the envy of the neighborhood. Happy Gardening.Back to Top

August – Japanese Beetles

Q: My yard is seeing an invasion of Japanese beetles. They seem especially fond of my roses and grape vines. What can I do? Ruth from Cubbage Hill

A: Japanese beetles are the adults that develop from white grubs in your lawn and garden beds. I’ve had tons of calls from customers reporting swarms of beetles eating everything including basil, geraniums, roses, flowering cherries, hibiscus and more. If you only have a few intruders, you can physically pick them off into a container of soapy water. You may want to use an insecticide if the damage is extensive. We carry a ready-to-use organic solution called “Veggie Pharm” that is safe and effective. Early next spring, stop in and get some “Bayer Tree and Shrub” insecticide. It is easily applied to the soil around vulnerable plants in the early spring. It circulates through the plant and kills insects that feed on the leaves PLUS lasts twelve months. Remember, the beetles are just there to eat, party with members of the opposite sex, and lay eggs in your lawn. So, treating your lawn right now for grubs can stem next summer’s invasion. Look for products containing insecticides that last up to one year for the best effectivness. Organic gardeners can use some Milky Spore, which infects the grubs with a bacteria that destroys them. It can last years once it becomes established in your lawn and is safe for kids and pets. Happy gardening.Back to Top

July – Cucumber Plants

Q: I need some help with my cucumber plants. There are lots of blossoms, but so far, no fruit. What am I doing wrong? Rich from Carnegie

A: Cucumbers have two types of flowers. Males provide the pollen while females will produce the actual cucumbers. Female flowers have a tiny cuke at their base just waiting for fertilization. On older varieties of cucumbers, the first flowers produced are males which results in no cukes. Eventually, everything will get in synch and you’ll be rewarded with plenty of fruit. Just keep your eye out for the dreaded striped cucumber beetle which carries bacterial wilt. Also keep your cucumbers picked since the older cukes on the vine inhibit formation of new fruits. Happy gardening.Back to Top

June – Hydrangeas

Q: Susan, I have a beautiful hydrangea in my yard. It grows plenty of leaves, but never seems to bloom. What am I doing wrong? Rosemary

A: First, I will assume it is an old-fashioned, mop head type of hydrangea. These plants bloom on the wood they made the previous year. So, hard pruning last fall will cut off all the wood that would produce flower buds this year. Also, a late hard frost can destroy the tender buds that will develop into flowering branches in later summer. Always wait to do any pruning on your hydrangeas till they leaf out in the spring. Then trim back the dead stems to where the new leaves are emerging. When most of the spring new growth is coming from the ground, the winter dieback itself will be too great to result in any blooms. To ensure more reliable hydrangea blooms, try one of the newer varieties like ‘Endless Summer’ (blue) or ‘Blushing Bride’ (white). They bloom on both new and old wood, so are much more reliable in our zone. Happy gardening.Back to Top

May – Azaleas

Q: I just notice that my pink evergreen azalea is looking kind of bad. Some of the leaves have brown tips while others look totally dead. Is it dying or can I do something to save it? Lois from Scott Twp.

A: Three words determine whether azaleas will survive in our area. They are location, location, location! They like sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon. This keeps them out of the harsh, drying wind and hot sun. What you are describing sounds like simple winter damage to the leaves. Although it is called winter damage, it usually occurs in the early spring when the days get warmer than normal and there is a lack of rainfall, as we just experienced during late April. Give the plant time to recover. Water it weekly during dry spells, especially in early spring and late fall. Then wait for the new leaves to pop out in a few weeks. You can prune out any branches that are not showing new growth. This would also be the time to do any trimming to shape the azalea. Also begin feeding regularly with an acid fertilizer, always following the directions on your particular brand. I think you’ll be surprised how good that poor, bedraggled looking azalea will look by the end of May. Happy Gardening.Back to Top