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September/October 2008
This summer I bought purple wave petunias for my hanging baskets.
They get afternoon sun. I’ve been very vigilant about watering them when they are dry, which
has been every other day. My petunias are looking really ratty with few flowers. Other
houses in my neighborhood have baskets that still look gorgeous. On a recent visit to your greenhouse,
I was amazed how beautiful your baskets still look. Any suggestions on how to keep my hanging baskets healthier
next summer? I’ve thrown in the towel this season. Thanks. Marianne
from State College Dear Marianne, First and foremost…Don’t put your potted plants on a diet! Most
containers are heavy feeders, especially wave petunias. Be sure to fertilize, or as we say “feed”,
your pots weekly with a water soluble formula that is high in phosphorus, which is the middle number on your fertilizer. We
use and recommend Jack’s Classic Blossom Booster. You can cut the dilution rate
in half and use it every time you water for spectacular results. Also, try to keep your baskets evenly
moist instead of letting them get extremely dry between waterings. Check them daily and water as needed.
Be sure to use a high quality potting soil, especially in hot, sunny locations. Try our Ultimate
Container Mix which contains a slow release fertilizer plus water holding crystals that will help keep plants moister.
I think with a little more attention, your hanging baskets will be the envy of the neighborhood. Happy Gardening.
August 2008 My yard is seeing an invasion of Japanese beetles. They seem especially fond of my roses and grape
vines. What can I do? Ruth from Cubbage Hill Japanese beetles are the adults that develop from white grubs in your lawn and garden beds.
I've had tons of calls from customers reporting swarms of beetles eating everything including basil, geraniums, roses, flowering
cherries, hibiscus and more. If you only have a few intruders, you can physically pick them off into a container of
soapy water. You may want to use an insecticide if the damage is extensive. We carry a ready-to-use organic solution
called "Veggie Pharm" that is safe and effective. Early next spring, stop in and
get some "Bayer Tree and Shrub" insecticide. It is easily applied to the soil around
vulnerable plants in the early spring. It circulates through the plant and kills insects that feed on the leaves PLUS
lasts twelve months. Remember, the beetles are just there to eat, party with members of the opposite sex, and lay eggs
in your lawn. So, treating your lawn right now for grubs can stem next summer's invasion. Look for products
containing insecticides that last up to one year for the best effectivness. Organic gardeners can use some Milky
Spore, which infects the grubs with a bacteria that destroys them. It can last years once it becomes established
in your lawn and is safe for kids and pets. Happy gardening.
July 2008
I need
some help with my cucumber plants. There are lots of blossoms, but so far, no fruit. What am I doing wrong?
Rich from Carnegie
Cucumbers have two types of flowers.
Males provide the pollen while females will produce the actual cucumbers. Female flowers have a tiny cuke at their base
just waiting for fertilization. On older varieties of cucumbers, the first flowers produced are males which results
in no cukes. Eventually, everything will get in synch and you'll be rewarded with plenty of fruit. Just keep
your eye out for the dreaded striped cucumber beetle which carries bacterial wilt. Also keep your cucumbers picked since
the older cukes on the vine inhibit formation of new fruits. Happy gardening.
June 2008
Susan, I have a beautiful hydrangea
in my yard. It grows plenty of leaves, but never seems to bloom. What am I doing wrong? Rosemary
First, I will assume it is an old-fashioned, mop
head type of hydrangea. These plants bloom on the wood they made the previous year. So, hard pruning last fall
will cut off all the wood that would produce flower buds this year. Also, a late hard frost can destroy the tender buds
that will develop into flowering branches in later summer. Always wait to do any pruning on your hydrangeas till they
leaf out in the spring. Then trim back the dead stems to where the new leaves are emerging. When most of the spring
new growth is coming from the ground, the winter dieback itself will be too great to result in any blooms. To ensure
more reliable hydrangea blooms, try one of the newer varieties like 'Endless Summer' (blue) or 'Blushing Bride'
(white). They bloom on both new and old wood, so are much more reliable in our zone. Happy gardening.
May 2008
I just notice
that my pink evergreen azalea is looking kind of bad. Some of the leaves have brown tips while others look totally dead.
Is it dying or can I do something to save it? Lois from Scott
Twp.
Three words determine whether azaleas will survive
in our area. They are location, location, location! They like sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon.
This keeps them out of the harsh, drying wind and hot sun. What you are describing sounds like simple winter damage
to the leaves. Although it is called winter damage, it usually occurs in the early spring when the days get warmer than
normal and there is a lack of rainfall, as we just experienced during late April. Give the plant time to recover.
Water it weekly during dry spells, especially in early spring and late fall. Then wait for the new leaves to pop out
in a few weeks. You can prune out any branches that are not showing new growth. This would also be the time to
do any trimming to shape the azalea. Also begin feeding regularly with an acid fertilizer, always following the directions
on your particular brand. I think you'll be surprised how good that poor, bedraggled looking azalea will look by
the end of May. Happy Gardening.
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